COLOMBIA. (1st
time)
December
2006
Beware of the FARC and bandits!
This was how we had been warned. Therefore it was with
trepidation that we entered Colombia. The sand ladders were over
Dipli´s back windows. The grids covered the front side-windows.
The PC, Sat. phone and other valuables were packed really ¨deep¨
and we hid some dollar notes, travellers´ cheques and a credit
card superficially, as decoy in case of armed robbery.
We made sure of stopping for the night long before dark
(usually at filling stations).
All bikers have to wear a jacket or a vest with their motor
bike registration numbers printed on their backs and on the rear
of their helmets, which may not cover the face.
The easier to be identified in case of crime (often
assassination of gang enemies).
Along the main road, armed police and soldiers were
frequently posted and soldiers were guarding all the bridges.
When Dipli had to cool down on a steep incline, uniformed guards
approached and .... shared a cool drink and a sandwich with us.
At road blocks we were seldom asked for our documents when they
realised that we were from far away. They told us that they
safeguard the main roads but think that there is no solution to
the guerrilla war and drug cartels.
The cyclist, descendant of previous president Mosquera:
We reached Popayan late afternoon. Even with the GPS
coordinates, we failed to locate a recommended sports club for
safe camping. A pedal biker came by. He was a vet and had worked
in the U.S. At his behest, we followed him (battling to keep up)
to his apartment complex where, having dodged the Christmas
decorations, we were in a safe haven.
The next day, in his 4-wheel drive Subaru car, we went to see
the beautiful old buildings of Popayan. One house was a museum:
Casa Mosquera. It had been the home of our friend´s great great
grandfather, 4-times president of Colombia (1845-1867). The
presidential farm was still in the hands of the family. We drove
out to meet them and to see the historical homestead. They keep
cows on the steep green slopes. Milking takes place in the
fields and horses bring the cans of milk down.
Coffee is good in Colombia, one of the world´s largest
producers. We saw red berries on trees and learned at the
¨Parque Nacional de Cafe¨ that from seed germinations to
harvesting, takes two years. 1 tree produces about 1,2kg of
coffee per annum. Colombia also exports minerals and other
agricultural crops like sugar, bananas and flowers - especially
carnations. Illegal exports include large quantities of cocaine,
marijuana and now also heroine. Colombia´s emeralds are the
finest but we did not know how to tell the difference from
synthetic ones and did not dare to buy.
We had visited the archaeological sights before, so did not
go again on these ¨risky¨? routes. (San Augustin; Tierra Dentro)
Bogota
We eventually succeeded in finding a rather scruffy but
24-hour guarded parking lot. It was centrally located in the old
centre near restaurants serving ¨ajaico¨, the tasty chunky
chicken and corn soup and maize pancakes called ¨arepas¨. We
could walk to the amazing Gold museum with 34 thousand gold
pieces from the pre-Hispanic cultures. (Vases, statuettes, head
dresses, masks, ear rings, breast plates, bracelets, etc)
The huge Salt-cathedral at Zipaquira is built in
mining tunnels deep under ground.
We were feeling quite safe on our route in Colombia and went
to see the historical buildings at Tunja and Villa de
Leyva, where we also found a real campsite with green grass
and all the facilities.
Tiff with a taxi
In heavy merging traffic in Bucaramanga a taxi got his
fender stuck on Dipli´s wheel step-ring. We blocked the traffic
till the police came and confirmed what Jan had alleged - that
he had smacked into Dipli when he tried to cut in front of us.
The senior officer forgot all about regulating the traffic and
posed to be photographed with us.
Due to the delay we had to drive in the dark and the mist.
But it was our last mountain pass and we were done with the
Andes at last! (Colombia: Diesel US$0,60/l).
For now, we were also finished with the Colombian road tolls:
$56 for 1500km; compared with Ecuador: $8 for 1300km and
Venezuela: $0.50c for 2200km!
VENEZUELA (1st
time)
December
2006
Cheapest Diesel!
It was a complicated business to cross the Colombia/Venezuela
border. On both sides the paper work had to be done in different
offices away from the border, i.e. having an inked imprint of
the number stamped on the chassis, taken before obtaining a
release to leave Colombia with Dipli.
We were hot and bothered and lost in San Cristobal,
Venezuela. Someone called from two lanes away and eventually led
us to the supermarket we were searching for. He was in a Toyota
Land Cruiser and was a member of an off-road club.
At his home, inside and outside beautifully adorned with
Christmas decorations and lights - even the kitchen and bath
room - we were introduced to many small bottles of frosty cold
Polar Ice beer. Once again we socialised a whole evening in our
very broken Spanish.
Diesel delight.
The next morning we had to buy diesel. It cost only 2c U.S. a
litre (About 14c SA!). Petrol: 3c and unleaded 4c U.S. We knew
then why there were so many old American gas-guzzlers on the
roads of Venezuela.
We were travelling through the flat Llanos of south
west Venezuela. There were many bridges to cross and we saw
ponds with water birds, including scarlet ibis.
At Ciudad Bolivar we arranged to fly to and over
Angel Falls. We landed in the remote Canaima National
Park. The promised morning flight never took place. However, it
was still thrilling, during the return flight, to see the
highest water fall in the world (979 m) though be it through
afternoon clouds.
After
crossing the mighty Orinoco River we reached the lovely
cool empty Gran Sabana. (It was a good spot to spend
Christmas next to Kama Falls). Characteristic of this
grassy plato are scores of waterfalls and the large abrupt table
top mountains. One of these ¨tepuys¨ is Mount Roraima,
which featured in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle´s ¨Lost world¨.
Approximately 5000 people climb Roraima each year. It sits on
the border of Venezuela, Brazil and Guyana. We were driving
towards Guyana through northern Brazil via Boa Vista. (Brazil:
Diesel US$1,00/l).
Back to
Venezuela/Colombia
