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Land Rover 4 cylinder 2.25 litre basic service:
- Clean the engine
- Replace the fuel filter/s
- Change the oil
- Change the oil filter
- Clean the air filter
- Replace the fan belt
- Set the tappets
- Replace the spark plugs (Petrol and Diesel section)
- Replace the points and condenser (Petrol and Diesel section)
- Set the timing (Petrol and Diesel section)
- Set the carburettor (Petrol only)
Start here...
- Run the engine for a short while, then spray it with some engine
cleaner and let it stand a while.
Rinse it off with a hose or high pressure cleaner.
- Petrol: Remove the old
inline filter and discard, fit a new filter and secure the clamps.
Diesel: Loosen the drain screw underneath
the fuel filter cup and let the fuel drain out. Loosen the bolt at the top and remove the
filter cartridge and lower cup. Once removed discard the cartridge. Using s thin flat screw
driver, remove the large "O" ring in the main filter body outer circumference
as
well as the smaller "o" ring in the inner circumference. Remove the tiny
"o" ring from the securing bolt. Discard all 3 "o" rings. There is a
4th "O" ring in the lower filter cup, remove and discard this one too. The new
filter will come with 4 new "o" rings, note that the two large ones are colour
coded, read on the box or on the filter cartridge which one goes on top and which one goes
below.
Diesels also have a sediment or, this looks identical to a fuel filter housing but is
hollow, with a cone inside. This device separates water and large particles from the fuel.
Remove the securing bolt in the center of the housing and clean the whole removable
assembly.
- Find a container able to hold about 10L of oil. Loosen the sump plug
using a socket or ring spanner.
Drain the oil until it drips slowly, replace the plug and tighten firmly.
- Loosen the bolt at the end of the oil filter cartridge housing and
let the first bit of oil run out of the top of the filter, the stream will later run down
the housing and over the front prop shaft, a truly marvellous design.
When the oil stops running all over everything, quickly loosen the bolt and remove the
filter housing in the upright position.
Discard the filter cartridge and wash the housing with engine cleaner or petrol.
Remove the 'o' ring from the filter body (aluminium bit on the engine) using a narrow
screwdriver.
Fit the new 'o' ring supplied with the filter cartridge. Before fitting the housing with
the new cartridge inside, lightly oil the mating rubber surfaces with clean engine oil.
- Remove the air cleaner (Original Oil bath type). Discard the oil in
the base pan and wash with engine cleaner or petrol. Rinse the main body and lower element
of the cleaner (The body and lower element have wire mesh cores) in lots of petrol, let
both of these dry in the sun for as long as possible, or use compressed air to evaporate
the petrol out.
Fill the base pan with engine oil to the oil mark.
- Loosen, don't remove, the two (Sometimes one) bolts that the
alternator/generator pivot on. Loosen the bolt on the upper adjuster as well as the
adjuster mount on the engine. Push the alternator towards the engine to slacken the belt
and remove the belt first from the alternator/generator pulley and then from the crank
pulley. Manoeuvre the belt over the fan and discard. Fit the new belt by reversing the
removal procedure. When it comes to tensioning the belt, you can use a small lever (short
power bar or similar) on the metal body of the alternator/generator. The correct tension
on the belt is best set by trying to rotate the alternator by hand, if it is possible i.e.
the belt slips, then the belt is too loose. Another way is to try turn the fan by hand, it
should turn with great difficulty, it may even turn the engine partially.
The tappets are an important key to an efficient quiet engine.
The tappets are set by just releasing the 1/2" nut (With a ring spanner) and
adjusting the screw a teeny amount before locking the nut again. The tappets must be set
to 0.25mm or .010" using a feeler gauge, they can be set hot or cold.
To remember which tappet to set with which one open, you can use the
"Rule of 9"
i.e. To set #1, subtract it from 9 and get 8, therefore #8 must be fully open to set #1 or
simply set the tappet which is a mirror image of the closed one. See the table:
SET TAPPET NUMBER |
WITH THIS VALVE FULLY OPEN (DOWN) |
| 1 |
8 |
| 2 |
7 |
| 3 |
6 |
| 4 |
5 |
| 5 |
4 |
| 6 |
3 |
| 7 |
2 |
| 8 |
1 |
After adjusting the tappets correctly, clean around
the sealing surface where the tappet cover seals, and also the cover itself, with
thinners. After doing this, apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to both sides of a new cork
gasket and fit it taking care not to get it oily in the process, tighten with care, make
sure the gasket does not pop outwards or inwards. Some people use the cork gasket without
sealant with success and some use the sealant without the gasket with success, pick and
choose.
- Petrol: Remove the
spark plugs and discard them. Set the plug gaps of the new plugs to 0.029" to
0.032" or 0.75mm to 0.88mm. Fit the new ones and screw them in by finger power only,
they should go in easily until quite firm, after this they can be turned 1/4 to 1/2 turn
until seated. NEVER FORCE THE PLUG TO TURN IF IT DOESN'T WANT TO GO IN BY HAND ! You could
damage the cylinder head's threads, requiring allot of reworking.
Diesel: Diesel Injectors do not need any
basic servicing, every 100 000 Km or so they will need to be removed and send to a diesel
agent for recalibration or new nozzles.
- Petrol: Unclip the two
clips holding the distributor cap in and move the cap clear of the distributor.
Remove the rotor cap carefully. Remove the little nut securing the LT wires on the points
spring curl, and remove the washer and plastic insulator. Disconnect the wires. Unscrew
the single screw holding the points down, remove the points and discard. Remove the single
screw securing the condenser and discard. Fit new points and condenser by reversing the
removal procedure.
Setting the points:
Turn the engine by spanner until any cam on the distributor shaft has lifted the points to
their maximum position. Loosen the points securing screw and insert a screwdriver into the
adjusting slot that looks a bit like this ( < >
) on the points body. Set the gap to be 0.014" to 0.016" or 0.35mm to
0.40mm. Also use one size smaller and one size bigger feeler gauge to check the gap.
Remember that the points are spring loaded so the gauge must move freely and not slightly
tight since the points will open to accommodate the thicker feeler, giving a false
reading.
Diesel: The Diesel injector pump is the equivalent of a petrol distributor
and carburettor in one. The unit needs no basic maintenance, but as with the injectors,
every 100 000 Km or so it should be removed and sent to an agent for recalibration
or
rebuilding.
- Petrol: The timing is
best set using a timing light at 8 degrees BTDC on the reef and going lower by 1 deg /
1000ft as you approach sea level. Follow the instructions that came with your light.
If you have no light, or the distributor has been removed and replaced, you can set the
timing 'statically' as follows:
Fit a light bulb between the LT (Low tension) lead going to the distributor from the coil
and a good earth point. Rotate the engine by spanner so that the timing marks align
appropriately. Series 3's have marks on the front pulley and timing cover while series 2's
have marks on the flywheel (Viewable through a little plate on the drivers side of the
flywheel housing behind the fuel pump)
These pointers only go upto 6 degrees BTDC, 8 degrees is a bit further along the wheel.
Turn the ignition on and loosen the distributor clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor body
against the direction of rotation of the rotor until the light JUST goes on. Tighten the
clamp bolt and refit the rotor and cap/leads.
Diesel: Diesel timing
is similar to a pointless ignition system, it rarely needs adjustment but, the timing is
often out due to this negligence.
With the engine hot the engine should idle "evenly" with no hesitation, when
revving the engine at 3/4 throttle it should be smooth and no
smoke should be seen.
Loosen the 3 nuts holding the pump body to the block, rotate the pump one way then the
other while looking at the exhaust - select the point there least smoke is seen. Tighten
the bolts.
- The carburettor is best set using a CO meter to 2%, if available. If
you can't get hold of one, follow these procedures:
With the engine warm, set the idling to +- 700rpm or where you like it, some like the
charge light to just flicker on/off on idle others like it to be full on or full off - you
choose.
Locate the mixture screw and turn it slowly inwards, listen to the engine and exhaust. If
the rpm goes up, adjust the idling screw down, of the engine goes slower and rougher, turn
the screw the other way. You will notice a point where the engine is idling the fastest
and the smoothest, between two other points of rough running, this is the best position,
adjust the idling to suit, and blip the throttle a bit to see if all s well.
The engine should not run roughly or have more than 3 puffs per minute from the exhaust.
Now the engine should be allot happier, remove all spanners, wires
and test equipment from the engine bay, the bonnet. and go for a test drive.
Download a servicing schedule for Series Vehicles
Servicing Schedule for
series vehices.xls
Repair and
Service Manual
Land Rover Series Parts
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