An Archive for Fanatics of Land Rovers

An Archive for Fanatics of Land Rovers










Land Rover 2.25 4cyl Engine Servicing

4 Cylinder Engine Fluid Quantities | Land Rover Series Service Schedule

Land Rover 4 cylinder 2.25 litre basic service:

  1. Clean the engine
  2. Replace the fuel filter/s
  3. Change the oil
  4. Change the oil filter
  5. Clean the air filter
  6. Replace the fan belt
  7. Set the tappets
  8. Replace the spark plugs (Petrol and Diesel section)
  9. Replace the points and condenser (Petrol and Diesel section)
  10. Set the timing (Petrol and Diesel section)
  11. Set the carburettor (Petrol only)

Start here...

  1. Run the engine for a short while, then spray it with some engine cleaner and let it stand a while.
    Rinse it off with a hose or high pressure cleaner.
  2. Petrol: Remove the old inline filter and discard, fit a new filter and secure the clamps.
    Diesel: Loosen the drain screw underneath the fuel filter cup and let the fuel drain out. Loosen the bolt at the top and remove the filter cartridge and lower cup. Once removed discard the cartridge. Using s thin flat screw driver, remove the large "O" ring in the main filter body outer circumference as well as the smaller "o" ring in the inner circumference. Remove the tiny "o" ring from the securing bolt. Discard all 3 "o" rings. There is a 4th "O" ring in the lower filter cup, remove and discard this one too. The new filter will come with 4 new "o" rings, note that the two large ones are colour coded, read on the box or on the filter cartridge which one goes on top and which one goes below.
    Diesels also have a sediment or, this looks identical to a fuel filter housing but is hollow, with a cone inside. This device separates water and large particles from the fuel. Remove the securing bolt in the center of the housing and clean the whole removable assembly. 
  3. Find a container able to hold about 10L of oil. Loosen the sump plug using a socket or ring spanner.
    Drain the oil until it drips slowly, replace the plug and tighten firmly.
  4. Loosen the bolt at the end of the oil filter cartridge housing and let the first bit of oil run out of the top of the filter, the stream will later run down the housing and over the front prop shaft, a truly marvellous design.
    When the oil stops running all over everything, quickly loosen the bolt and remove the filter housing in the upright position.
    Discard the filter cartridge and wash the housing with engine cleaner or petrol.
    Remove the 'o' ring from the filter body (aluminium bit on the engine) using a narrow screwdriver.
    Fit the new 'o' ring supplied with the filter cartridge. Before fitting the housing with the new cartridge inside, lightly oil the mating rubber surfaces with clean engine oil.
  5. Remove the air cleaner (Original Oil bath type). Discard the oil in the base pan and wash with engine cleaner or petrol. Rinse the main body and lower element of the cleaner (The body and lower element have wire mesh cores) in lots of petrol, let both of these dry in the sun for as long as possible, or use compressed air to evaporate the petrol out.
    Fill the base pan with engine oil to the oil mark.
  6. Loosen, don't remove, the two (Sometimes one) bolts that the alternator/generator pivot on. Loosen the bolt on the upper adjuster as well as the adjuster mount on the engine. Push the alternator towards the engine to slacken the belt and remove the belt first from the alternator/generator pulley and then from the crank pulley. Manoeuvre the belt over the fan and discard. Fit the new belt by reversing the removal procedure. When it comes to tensioning the belt, you can use a small lever (short power bar or similar) on the metal body of the alternator/generator. The correct tension on the belt is best set by trying to rotate the alternator by hand, if it is possible i.e. the belt slips, then the belt is too loose. Another way is to try turn the fan by hand, it should turn with great difficulty, it may even turn the engine partially.

  7. The tappets are an important key to an efficient quiet engine.
    The tappets are set by just releasing the 1/2" nut (With a ring spanner) and adjusting the screw a teeny amount before locking the nut again. The tappets must be set to 0.25mm or .010" using a feeler gauge, they can be set hot or cold.

    To remember which tappet to set with which one open, you can use the "Rule of 9"
    i.e. To set #1, subtract it from 9 and get 8, therefore #8 must be fully open to set #1 or simply set the tappet which is a mirror image of the closed one.  See the table:


    1 8
    2 7
    3 6
    4 5
    5 4
    6 3
    7 2
    8 1

    After adjusting the tappets correctly, clean around the sealing surface where the tappet cover seals, and also the cover itself, with thinners. After doing this, apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to both sides of a new cork gasket and fit it taking care not to get it oily in the process, tighten with care, make sure the gasket does not pop outwards or inwards. Some people use the cork gasket without sealant with success and some use the sealant without the gasket with success, pick and choose.

  8. Petrol: Remove the spark plugs and discard them. Set the plug gaps of the new plugs to 0.029" to 0.032" or 0.75mm to 0.88mm. Fit the new ones and screw them in by finger power only, they should go in easily until quite firm, after this they can be turned 1/4 to 1/2 turn until seated. NEVER FORCE THE PLUG TO TURN IF IT DOESN'T WANT TO GO IN BY HAND ! You could damage the cylinder head's threads, requiring allot of reworking.

    Diesel: Diesel Injectors do not need any basic servicing, every 100 000 Km or so they will need to be removed and send to a diesel agent for recalibration or new nozzles.
  9. Petrol: Unclip the two clips holding the distributor cap in and move the cap clear of the distributor.
    Remove the rotor cap carefully. Remove the little nut securing the LT wires on the points spring curl, and remove the washer and plastic insulator. Disconnect the wires. Unscrew the single screw holding the points down, remove the points and discard. Remove the single screw securing the condenser and discard. Fit new points and condenser by reversing the removal procedure.

    Setting the points:
    Turn the engine by spanner until any cam on the distributor shaft has lifted the points to their maximum position. Loosen the points securing screw and insert a screwdriver into the adjusting slot that looks a bit like this (     < >    ) on the points body. Set the gap to be 0.014" to 0.016" or  0.35mm to 0.40mm. Also use one size smaller and one size bigger feeler gauge to check the gap. Remember that the points are spring loaded so the gauge must move freely and not slightly tight since the points will open to accommodate the thicker feeler, giving a false reading.

    Diesel: The Diesel injector pump is the equivalent of a petrol distributor and carburettor in one. The unit needs no basic maintenance, but as with the injectors, every 100 000 Km or so it should be removed and sent to an agent for recalibration or rebuilding.
  10. Petrol: The timing is best set using a timing light at 8 degrees BTDC on the reef and going lower by 1 deg / 1000ft as you approach sea level. Follow the instructions that came with your light.
    If you have no light, or the distributor has been removed and replaced, you can set the timing 'statically' as follows:
    Fit a light bulb between the LT (Low tension) lead going to the distributor from the coil and a good earth point. Rotate the engine by spanner so that the timing marks align appropriately. Series 3's have marks on the front pulley and timing cover while series 2's have marks on the flywheel (Viewable through a little plate on the drivers side of the flywheel housing behind the fuel pump)
    These pointers only go upto 6 degrees BTDC, 8 degrees is a bit further along the wheel.
    Turn the ignition on and loosen the distributor clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor body against the direction of rotation of the rotor until the light JUST goes on. Tighten the clamp bolt and refit the rotor and cap/leads.

    Diesel: Diesel timing is similar to a pointless ignition system, it rarely needs adjustment but, the timing is often out due to this negligence.
    With the engine hot the engine should idle "evenly" with no hesitation, when revving the engine at 3/4 throttle it should be smooth and no smoke should be seen.
    Loosen the 3 nuts holding the pump body to the block, rotate the pump one way then the other while looking at the exhaust - select the point there least smoke is seen. Tighten the bolts.
  11. The carburettor is best set using a CO meter to 2%, if available. If you can't get hold of one, follow these procedures:
    With the engine warm, set the idling to +- 700rpm or where you like it, some like the charge light to just flicker on/off on idle others like it to be full on or full off - you choose.
    Locate the mixture screw and turn it slowly inwards, listen to the engine and exhaust. If the rpm goes up, adjust the idling screw down, of the engine goes slower and rougher, turn the screw the other way. You will notice a point where the engine is idling the fastest and the smoothest, between two other points of rough running, this is the best position, adjust the idling to suit, and blip the throttle a bit to see if all s well.
    The engine should not run roughly or have more than 3 puffs per minute from the exhaust.

Now the engine should be allot happier, remove all spanners, wires and test equipment from the engine bay, the bonnet. and go for a test drive.

Download a servicing schedule for Series Vehicles 
Servicing Schedule for series vehices.xls

Repair and Service Manual
Land Rover Series Parts


4 Cylinder Fluid Quantities

Location Volume
4 cyl petrol and diesel engine 6.25 L Any oil rated for petrol and diesel engines
Extra engine oil when changing the oil filter 1.50 L As above
Series 2 & 3 4 cyl Oil bath air cleaner 0.85 L As above
Series 2 & 3 Main Gearbox 1.50 L Any gear oil 80 or 90
Series 2 & 3 Transfer Box 2.50 L Any gear oil
Series 2 & 3 SWB, S3 LWB front differential 1.70 L Any gear oil
Series 3 LWB rear Salisbury 2.30 L Any gear oil
Swivel Hub, all Leaf sprung Land Rovers 0.56 L Any gear oil
Transfer box 3.16 L Any gear oil
SWB Undersea Fuel Tank 45.5 L standard and 65 L long range
Cooling System 4 cylinder Petrol Standard 10.3 L 25 % aluminum friendly anti freeze
Cooling System 4 cylinder Diesel and HD Petrol 11.0 L 25 % aluminum friendly anti freeze
Steering Box Manual 0.43 L Any gear oil

* The older 4 cyl petrol uses the 207M/EP29 set and the newer engine uses the 208M/EP59 set. You may get away with using the newer stuff on the older engine.

4 Cylinder Filters

Engine Air Filter Oil Filter Fuel Filter Plugs Points Condenser
2.25 4 cyl Petrol Engine oil GUD G546 GUD Z29 NGK BP5ES Echlin 207M Echlin EP29
2.25 4 cyl Diesel Engine oil GUD G546 GUD G629 - - -


Land Rover Service and Repair Guides

Land Rover Discovery Defender  Workshop Manuals 
Range Rover repair manual
Workshop manuals Land Rover Series 3, 2, 1s

...order online... 


 bidorbuy South Africa - Bid, Buy or Sell cameras, computers, diamonds, coins, cars & more on auction at cheap prices

Home | Search | Subscribe | Advertise
This website is for fans and enthusiasts of Land Rovers is not linked to and does not claim to represent Jaguar Land Rover in anyway.