Land Rover 6 Cylinder 2.6 litre
Engine from Series Landrover basic service:
- Clean the engine
- Replace the fuel filter/s
- Change the oil
- Change the oil filter
- Clean the air filter
- Replace the fan belt
- Set the tappets
- Replace the spark plugs
- Replace the points and condenser
- Set the timing
- Set the carburettor
- Run the engine for a short while, then spray it with
some engine cleaner and let it stand a while.
Rinse it off with a hose or high pressure cleaner.
- Remove the old inline filter and discard, fit a new
filter and secure the clamps.
Find a container able to hold about 10L of oil.
Loosen the sump plug using a socket or ring spanner.
Drain the oil until it drips slowly, replace the plug and tighten firmly.
- Loosen the bolt at the top of the oil filter head,
remove the housing with the cartridge inside.
Discard the filter cartridge and wash the
housing with engine cleaner or petrol.
Remove the 'o' ring from the filter body (aluminium bit on the engine) using a narrow
Fit the new 'o' ring supplied with the filter cartridge. Before fitting the housing with
the new cartridge inside, lightly oil the mating rubber surfaces with clean engine oil.
- Remove the air cleaner (Original Oil bath type).
Discard the oil in the base pan and wash with engine cleaner or petrol. Rinse the main
body and lower element of the cleaner (The body and lower element have wire mesh cores) in
lots of petrol, let both of these dry in the sun for as long as possible, or use
compressed air to evaporate the petrol out.
Fill the base pan with engine oil to the oil mark.
- Loosen, don't remove, the two (Sometimes one) bolts
that the alternator/generator pivot on. Loosen the bolt on the upper adjuster as well as
the adjuster mount on the engine. Push the alternator towards the engine to slacken the
belt and remove the belt first from the alternator/generator pulley and then from the
crank pulley. Manoeuvre the belt over the fan and discard. Fit the new belt by reversing
the removal procedure. When it comes to tensioning the belt, you can use a small lever
(short power bar or similar) on the metal body of the alternator/generator. The correct
tension on the belt is best set by trying to rotate the alternator by hand, if it is
possible i.e. the belt slips, then the belt is too loose. Another way is to try turn the
fan by hand, it should turn with great difficulty, it may even turn the engine partially.
- The tappets are an important key to an efficient
The tappets are set by just releasing the 1/2" nut (With a ring spanner) and
adjusting the screw a teeny amount before locking the nut again. The INLET tappets must be
set to 0.15mm or .006" and the EXHAUST tappets must be set to 0.25mm or 0.010"
both bust be set when the engine is hot.
- To remember which tappet to set with which one open,
you can use the "Rule of 9"
i.e. To set #1, subtract it from 9 and get 8, therefore #8 must be fully open to set #1 or
simply set the tappet which is a mirror image of the closed one. See the table.
SET TAPPET NUMBER
|WITH THIS VALVE FULLY
After adjusting the tappets correctly, clean around the sealing surface where the tappet
cover seals, and also the cover itself, with thinners. After doing this, apply a thin
layer of RTV sealant to both sides of a new cork gasket and fit it taking care not to get
it oily in the process, tighten with care, make sure the gasket does not pop outwards or
inwards. Some people use the cork gasket without sealant with success and some use the
sealant without the gasket with success, pick and choose.
Remove the spark plugs and discard them. Set the gap of the new plugs
to .029" to .032 or 0.75mm to 0.88mm. Fit the new ones and screw them in by finger
power only, they should go in easily until quite firm, after this they can be turned 1/4
to 1/2 turn until seated. NEVER FORCE THE PLUG TO TURN IF IT DOESN'T WANT TO GO IN BY HAND
! You could damage the cylinder head's threads, requiring allot of reworking.
- Unclip the two clips holding the distributor cap in
and move the cap clear of the distributor.
Remove the rotor cap carefully. Remove the little nut securing the LT wires on the points
spring curl, and remove the washer and plastic insulator. Disconnect the wires. Unscrew
the single screw holding the points down, remove the points and discard. Remove the single
screw securing the condenser and discard. Fit new points and condenser by reversing the
Setting the points:
Turn the engine by spanner until any cam on the distributor shaft has lifted the points to
their maximum position. Loosen the points securing screw and insert a screwdriver into the
adjusting slot that looks a bit like this ( < >
) on the points body. Set the gap to be .014" to 0.016" or 0.35mm to 0.40mm. Use
one size smaller and one size bigger feeler gauge to check the gap. Remember that the
points are spring loaded so the gauge must move freely and not slightly tight since the
points will open to accommodate the thicker feeler, giving a false reading.
- The timing is best set using a timing light at 8
degrees BTDC on the reef and going lower by 1 deg / 1000ft as you approach sea level.
Follow the instructions that came with your light.
If you have no light, or the distributor has been removed and replaced, you can set the
timing 'statically' as follows:
Fit a light bulb between the LT (Low tension) lead going to the distributor from the coil
and a good earth point. Rotate the engine by spanner so that the timing marks align
appropriately. Series 3's have marks on the front pulley and timing cover while series 2's
have marks on the flywheel (Viewable through a little plate on the drivers side of the
flywheel housing behind the fuel pump)
These pointers only go upto 6 degrees BTDC, 8 degrees is a bit further along the wheel.
Turn the ignition on and loosen the distributor clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor body
against the direction of rotation of the rotor until the light JUST goes on. Tighten the
clamp bolt and refit the rotor and cap/leads.
- The carburettor is best set using a CO meter to 2%,
if available. If you can't get hold of one, follow these procedures:
With the engine warm, set the idling to +- 700rpm or where you like it, some like the
charge light to just flicker on/off on idle others like it to be full on or full off - you
Locate the mixture screw and turn it slowly inwards, listen to the engine and exhaust. If
the rpm goes up, adjust the idling screw down, of the engine goes slower and rougher, turn
the screw the other way. You will notice a point where the engine is idling the fastest
and the smoothest, between two other points of rough running, this is the best position,
adjust the idling to suit, and blip the throttle a bit to see if all s well.
The engine should not run roughly or have more than 3 puffs per minute from the exhaust.
Now the engine should be allot happier, remove all
spanners, wires and test equipment from the engine bay, the bonnet. and go for a test
Download a servicing schedule for Series Vehicles
Servicing Schedule for
Repair and Service
Land Rover Series Parts